Botallack Mine

Self-guided trail

Welcome to Botallack Mine

Botallack Mine - Dae Sasitorn/Last Refuge

Botallack Mine is situated in the St Just Mining District, one of the most ancient hard-rock tin and copper mining areas in Cornwall. Here the majority of principal sites lie within a well-defined spectacular coastal belt 3.5 miles long by approximately 1.25 miles wide.

Copper and tin has been won here for countless generations and miners have even sunk shafts and driven levels out beneath the ocean bed. These are the world famous submarine mines.

Courtesy Manchester City Art Galleries
Courtesy of Manchester City Art Galleries

Walking around Botallack is now a peaceful experience, especially in spring when wildflowers adorn the cliffs. But at the peak of mining the cliff tops would have reverberated with the noise of crushing machinery and the bustle of miners, bal maidens and children going about their daily tasks. Many fathoms underground, and in tunnels out under the sea, miners – often father and son - toiled to break the ore. Hand-drilling shot holes for blasting with gunpowder, and working the narrow ‘stopes’ with hammer and ‘picker’, the work was hard and dangerous. But mining was the life-blood of the St Just area and hundreds of families depended on this ancient industry.

Mid-1700s Levels at Wheal Cock being driven under the sea
Late 1700s Botallack formed from consolidation of small independent mines
1846 Queen Victoria visited Botallack
1858 Work began on the Boscawen Diagonal Shaft
1863 Eight miners and a boy killed in the Diagonal Shaft
1865 Prince and Princess of Wales visited Botallack
1895 Low tin price and further flooding causes Botallack to close
1906 The mine was reopened and work concentrated around Allen’s Shaft
1914 Botallack closed
1980 Queen Elizabeth II visited Botallack
1980s Attempt to re-open Botallack by Geevor Mine
1985 Repair of the Crowns engine houses by the Carn Brea Mining Society
1995-2000 Botallack Mine acquired by the National Trust

Geology and Minerals

Simplified geology of the Botallack area
Simplified geology of the Botallack area showing principal rock types and general direction of the imineral lodes.

Most of the Land’s End Peninsula consists of granite, a coarsely crystalline igneous rock, formed deep in the earth around 280 million years ago. North-east from Cape Cornwall dark-coloured slate and volcanic rocks comprise much of the rugged cliffscape. Within both the granite and these older rocks near-vertical veins (lodes), containing tin and copper, formed at right angles to the cliffs. The pursuit of these lodes beneath the bed of the Atlantic Ocean challenged the skills of the Cornish miner and brought worldwide fame to the St Just Mining District. Levant Mine and the nearby Botallack Mine were the most successful of these famous submarine enterprises.

Dip of lode The lodes in the St Just Mining District were nearly vertical (dipping at 70° to 80°) and narrow (less than a metre). They often contained mixed ores of tin, copper and arsenic, with ore grades that were well above the average for Cornish mines.

Cassiterite

CASSITERITE

The oxide of tin. The ore grade in St Just mines was often high, the coarsely concentrated mineral being mined by single-handed ‘stoping’ of the narrow veins within walls of hard country rock.

Chalcocite

CHALCOCITE

This was the principal copper ore in the St Just District and is a rich sulphide that contains 80% copper metal. This factor helps explain the success of the coastal copper producers here.

Chalcopyrite

CHALCOPYRITE

This was the commonest copper ore in Cornwall and West Devon, containing 35% copper.

BORNITE

An important ore, particularly at Botallack, that contains 63% copper.

ARSENOPYRITE

This was the principal ore of arsenic and contains 45% of the semi-metal.

Botallack Mine Self-guided Trail

This trail takes you through an area of high cliffs and mine shafts. Please take care not to place yourself or others at risk whilst enjoying the landscape.

Trail Map

The trail starts and finishes at the Count House, Botallack.

The Count House, Botallack A

The Count House (Account House) was built in 1861-2 as the residence and offices for the Captain and staff of Botallack Mine. In the heyday of Cornish mining, count houses were the scene of lavish dinners when shareholders gathered to examine the mine accounts.

The tin dinner service, used between 1843 and the mine’s closure in 1895, can be seen in the Geevor Mine museum in Pendeen. Mineworkers also came here monthly to be paid.

In 1995 the Count House was acquired and restored by the National Trust. It is now a base for the Area Warden, and the adjacent workshop is a centre for interpretation and education and is used for a variety of community events.

Leaving the Count House, turn right (north) past the remaining walls of the mine’s blacksmith’s, sawmill and other buildings. Just beyond the car park the track passes a gateway and the concrete remains of Botallack’s early twentieth-century tin-dressing floors.

Continue along the main track, keeping the tall steel headframe of Allen’s Shaft on your right. This marks an attempt in the 1980s by Geevor Mine to re-open some of the Botallack workings and link them with Geevor.

Follow the main track until you reach the junction with the South West Coast Path. This descends sharply on your left (marked by a finger post). At this point you can take an optional detour to Wheal Cock.

Or, alternatively, take the Coast Path in the direction of the tall chimney and extensive walled structures. As the path descends, there is a fine view on your right across to the Crowns engine houses, perched above the sea on Botallack Head. The conspicuous concrete terraced structures on the left are the remains of the 1907 tin-dressing mill.

1906 tin-dressing floors B

The concrete plinths and floors mark the site of the mill used to process tin ore during the last re-working. At the upper end are the huge foundations for the stamps, which crushed the ore to a sandy pulp. Below it were various devices for the extraction of the ‘black tin’ using water and gravity. Several circular ‘buddles’ can be seen, upon which the heavy tin particles were separated out from the lighter waste.

Beyond the tin-dressing floors, above the path and to the left of the tall stack, are the remains of a square building with a distinctive archway in buff-coloured brickwork. This was a Brunton calciner, and was the starting point for the extraction of arsenic from Botallack ores during the 1906-1914 re-working.

1906 arsenic works C

Arsenic flues under construction
Arsenic flues under construction

Botallack tin ore contained small quantities of arsenic and other metals. ‘Black tin’ from the mill was roasted in a calciner which removed arsenic as a gas. This was then condensed and collected as a saleable product.

The gases were led out of the calciner via a stone flue, now unroofed, which can be followed inland to the arch-roofed condensing chambers. Beyond the ‘lambreth’ the remaining flue gases were drawn up the chimney stack.

The site is a designated Scheduled Monument and funding has recently enabled work to stabilise the buildings and to remove the toxic arsenic deposits so that the site can be explored safely.

By a finger post below the stack a pathway leaves the Coast Path sharply to the right and offers a route down to the Crowns engine houses.

Crowns engine houses D

Crown's engine house
Crown's engine house with tin-dressing floors (foreground), 1860s.

The lower of the two engine houses was built in 1835 to pump water from the mine. The higher engine house was built in 1862 to provide winding power for the Boscawen Diagonal Shaft, which ran out under the sea.

Men were carried up and down the shaft in a gig, a purpose-built, wheeled box, which was also used to raise ore. The Prince and Princess of Wales rode the gig during their visit in July 1865, two years after a terrible accident, caused by the gig-chain breaking, in which eight miners and a boy were killed.

Continue along the path. Two prominent engine houses lie ahead. The one beyond the burrows, immediately beside the left of the track, is the engine house of West Wheal Owles, whilst the more ruinous one on the right is the stamps engine house of Wheal Edward. Both structures were restored in 1995 by the National Trust as part of its Centenary Year celebrations.

West Wheal Owles E

Wheal Edward stamps
Wheal Edward stamps, late nineteenth century.

This mine was the scene of a tragic disaster in January 1893 when, due to a surveying error, miners accidentally blasted through into the abandoned flooded workings of Wheal Drea.

The sudden inrush of water flooded the mine and drowned nineteen men and a boy. The mine was closed and their bodies were never recovered.

With the engine house of Wheal Edward on your immediate right, take the path that turns sharply back on your left. This takes you past the pumping engine house of West Wheal Owles again (on your left) with the Count House in the distance. Keep following the main track (part of the old tramway). On the skyline off to your right is the engine house of Wheal Owles. When you reach the car track from Botallack village, turn left and head back towards the Count House. On your right you pass a single-storied dwelling: Botallack Vean.

Botallack Vean F

On the re-opening of the mine in 1906 this was built as accommodation and a survey school for the Penzance School of Mines. Owned by the National Trust since 1998, it now provides a base for full-time volunteers.

Ahead of you lies the Count House, Botallack.

Optional tour to Wheal Cock (blue path)

Continue along the track (now the Coast Path heading north). Beyond the fenced-off area around Allen’s Shaft, a low grassy mound protects the quarry-like tin-workings of Grylls Bunny.

Wheal Cock shafts
Shafts on the cliff edge at Wheal Cock section, Botallack Mine, early 1890s.

These extend on either side of the track. At the fork in the track, take the Coast Path on the left that heads towards the chimney stack of Carn Whim on the cliff-top of Botallack Head. At times there are glimpses of the Crowns engine houses on the rocks below.

Passing the stack follow the path past heaps of rocky mine waste and then head for the conspicuous concrete triangulation pillar, to the right of a stone wall that surrounds a small quarry.

Ahead are two concrete engine mountings that belong to the Wheal Cock section of Botallack Mine. Beyond these are the sprawling burrows - waste rock tips - of Wheal Cock. Soon a prominent circular wall around the collar of Skip Shaft comes into view on the left (this is fitted with a safety grill). A view seaward from here reveals, down-slope, the circular shaft top of Wheal Cock Engine Shaft on a level platform above a massive retaining wall built into the cliff top at the time of the 1906 re-opening. Back on the path, pass the stone walls on your immediate right that mark the site of the miners’ changing house or dry. Turn right and follow the path back to re-join the track. Turn right again and head back (south), passing the cottages on your left.

You will soon arrive back near Allen’s Shaft headframe.

Archive photographs: Courtesy of the Trounson-Bullen Collection.

This map is based upon Ordnance Survey material with the permission of Ordnance Survey on behalf of the Controller of Her Majesty’s Stationery Office © Crown copyright. Unauthorised reproduction infringes Crown copyright and may lead to prosecution or civil proceedings.
Cornwall County Council 100019590, 2005.

Wildlife

Seal The cliffs of Botallack are a haven for many maritime animals and plants.

Habitats are diverse, and range from the open ocean and steep cliffs to heathland and a patchwork of ancient small granite-walled fields. Cape Cornwall and the headlands of Botallack and Kenidjack are good lookouts for basking sharks and sociable family groups of dolphins. Shoals of mackerel and herring make the offshore a feeding ground for seabirds such as gannets, fulmars and kittiwakes.

Lichens Island rocks and secluded boulder-strewn coves and caves provide haul-out sites for Atlantic grey seals. The cliffs offer isolation and shelter for breeding sea-birds whilst rare lichens and rock crevice plants thrive. In spring and summer, clifftop hedgerows are transformed by the colours of flowering sea campion, thrift, thyme, scabious and centaury, attracting many butterflies and moths. Wind-cropped maritime heathland becomes a purple carpet of ling and bell heather, interspersed with bright yellow gorse.

Butterfly The hollows and open workings of old mines provide damp niches for ferns and mosses whilst mine shafts and the underground environment are important bat roosts. Even the mine wastes provide micro-habitats for animals and specialised plants such as lichen and liverworts.

 

What the Trust is doing

The National Trust bought and restored the Count House in 1995 and acquired Botallack Cliffs in 2000. Since then there has been an on-going programme of safety, access and conservation works. This has been undertaken in partnership with Cornwall County Council and assisted by local staff and volunteers.

Safety worksSafety works

Engine houses have been consolidated and shafts have been secured and made safe. Botallack’s former arsenic works has been de-contaminated and the structures consolidated to preserve the remains and to permit safe access.

Conservation workConservation work

The National Trust has restored the Count House and has conserved many of the engine houses and other mining structures around Botallack, including important tin- and arsenic-processing remains.

Habitat restorationHabitat restoration

Abandoned mining ground provides varied and special habitats for wildlife. Important heathland is maintained and mine shafts have been hedged and fenced in a traditional manner that is sensitive to ecology.

AccessAccess

Existing footpaths have been maintained and a new car parking area and pathways created.
 

EventsEvents

A programme of events includes an annual steam fair, mining history talks, guided walks, exhibitions, workshops and cliff-top drama.

Contact: The Count House, Botallack 01736 788588
Location: OS Explorer Map 102 SW364336
By foot: South West Coast Path passes nearby
By bus: Penzance to Botallack (contact Traveline on 0870 6082608 or www.traveline.org.uk
By train: 7 miles from Penzance station
By road: 3 miles west of Pendeen on B3306 St Just - St Ives road

Botallack context map

Separate designated disabled parking. Adapted WC.

Braille guide & large print. Sensory list.

Other sites to visit in the area

Levant - National Trust working beam engine and historic mining site OS Explorer Map 102 SW 368346
Geevor Mine (not National Trust) - mining heritage museum OS Explorer Map 102 SW 375347
Pendeen Lighthouse - Trinity House OS Explorer Map 102 SW 379359

Acknowledgments

This self guided trail was produced by the St Just Heritage Area Regeneration Project - funded by the European Regional Development Fund, South West Regional Development Agency, Cornwall County Council, the National Trust, Penwith District Council, St Just Town Council, Pendeen Residents Association, Cornwall Wildlife Trust and others. For further information on the St Just Heritage Area see www.landsendarea.co.uk

www.landsendarea.co.uk
www.nationaltrust.org.uk